Fruit Tree

Early Richmond Cherry Tree is a heavy-yielding fruit tree with ornamental qualities. Use one as a specimen tree for your yard, fruit tree for your garden or even as a pretty shade tree to relax under during those hot summer afternoons. There’s nothing like having your very own cherry tree. A profuse bloom of abundant white flowers in the spring will welcome summer like no other tree in your yard. The glossy dark-green foliage will fill out your tree, and soon a sumptuous feast of succulent, sun-warmed cherries will be within your reach. Again, there is simply nothing like it! Your Early Richmond Cherry Tree ripens a week earlier than other cherries, so you won’t have to wait to partake of its delicious bounty. In fact, it’s the first sour cherry available in late spring. The round, bright red cherry has a delicious tart flavor that is perfect for pies, cobblers, dessert sauces, preserves, and jams. If you choose to leave the fruit on the tree, your songbirds will be sure to thank you for the special treat. Early Richmond Cherry is a hardy, rounded tree that will produces prolifically for many years. It grows only 15' tall with a span of 10'-20', so won’t take up much space in your yard. In fact, it can be held to almost any height with summer pruning. * Delicious, early maturity fruit * Spring flowers * Wildlife interest * Hardy Hardiness Zones The Early Richmond cherry can be expected to grow in Hardiness Zones 4–8.

Lapin is one of the largest and juiciest sweet cherry varieties. It is said that one Lapin Cherry is a mouthful. Lapin Cherries can pollinate themselves, so planting another sweet cherry cultivar is not required. The skin is a dark red to a deep purple color. The flesh is sweet and juicy with a nice flavor. Fact About Lapin Cherries: 　 Mature Height: 10 - 20 feet Mature Spread: 10 - 15 feet Mature Form: Upright Growth Rate: Moderate Sun Exposure: Full Sun Soil Moisture: Well-Drained Soil Type: Loamy, Sandy, or Clay Flower Color: White Foliage Color: Green Fall Color: Orange, Red, or Yellow Bloom Time: Spring Ripens: July Fruit Color: Dark Red to Deep Purple pH Preference: 6.5 - 7.5 Zones: 4 - 9

Gala Apple trees are deciduous, fruit bearing trees that grow primarily in the northern hemisphere. They prefer the dry climate and warm summers of Canada and America, and cannot be grown in the tropics, or above the Arctic Circle. There are some apple trees that are now cultivated in Australia and New Zealand. When grown in the wild, apple trees often have thorns on the branches, in order to protect the fruit. Gala Apple trees are also flowering trees, and it is the pollination of their flowers that will allow for fruit to grow. When planting apple trees in a garden, it is important to know that many apple trees do not self-pollinate. For this reason, only one apple tree in the garden may not be able to produce much, if any fruit. To solve this, plant several different varieties of apple trees with similar flowering times to allow for cross-pollination. Gala Apple trees should be planted in November, if possible. They can also be planted up to the end of March. This is when the soil is most friable. The apple trees should be planted firmly, with the soil pressed down hard around the roots. The apple trees should then be tied to a strong enough stake, for support until the roots take hold. Mulch should be applied around the base of the apple trees, to help retain moisture during the first growing period. Gala Apple tree seeds can start germinating in any seasons, indoor or outdoor when temperature is above 10 °C, It is very easy to grow, and do not need any special treatment of stratification. Growing Zones: 5-8 Mature Height: 10-15 ft. Mature Width: 8-10 ft. Growth/Year: 2-3 ft. Sunlight: Full - Partial Soil Conditions: Adaptable Drought Tolerance: Good Botanical Name: Malus 'Gala

The Granny Smith Apple tree produces fruit that is tart and delicious. The apples from a Granny Smith Apple tree are unique, in that they do not change in color from green. Most apples, once mature, will either turn red or yellow, and sometimes a combination of the two. It is harder to tell a mature granny smith apple from a younger one, in that they are both green. The fruit produced by a Granny Smith Apple tree is an all-purpose apple with green skin and firm crisp flesh. The fruit can be eaten straight off the tree, or cooked in a variety of fashions. The flesh of a Granny Smith Apple will remain crisp for longer than many other breeds once the apple has been cut. TheGranny Smith Apple tree is believed to have originally come from the seed of a French crab apple. Granny Smith Apple trees are not self-pollinating. This means that another type of apple tree is needed in order for the Granny Smith Apple tree to produce fruit. Like most other apple trees, the pollinating tree used with a Granny Smith Apple does not really matter that much. As long as the pollen is fertile, nearly any apple tree will be able to pollinate a Granny Smith Apple tree and create delicious fruit. Granny Smith Apple trees are hardy in zones five through eight, and require a good deal of sunlight. When pruned and cared for properly, a Granny Smith Apple tree will grow for over fifty years. Granny Smith Apple trees do not require very much support, as they are typically able to support their own weight. In the semi-dwarf state, Granny Smith Apple trees will grow to fourteen feet high. 　 Granny Smith Apple tree seeds can start germinating in any seasons, indoor or outdoor when temperature is above 10 °C, It is very easy to grow, and do not need any special treatment of stratification. Growing Zones: 5-8 Mature Height: 10-15 ft. Mature Width: 8-10 ft. Growth/Year: 2-3 ft. Sunlight: Full - Partial Soil Conditions: Adaptable Drought Tolerance: Good

Growth Habit: In the forests where it is native, the plant is a vigorous, woody, twining vine (liana) or climbing shrub. It is not unusual for a healthy vine to cover an area 10 to 15 feet wide, 18 to 24 feet long and 9 to 12 feet high. In cultivation it is supported on a trellising system. Foliage: The large, deep green, leathery leaves are oval to nearly circular and 7 to 10 inches in diameter. Young leaves and shoots are coated with red hairs, while mature leaves are dark green and hairless on the upper surface, downy-white with prominent, light colored veins beneath. Flowers: The large (1 to 2 inch diameter), white to cream colored flowers are somewhat fragrant and produced as singlets to triplets in the leaf axiles. The flowering period extends over several weeks from early May to June, depending on climatic conditions. The plants are dioecious, bearing either male or female flowers, thus needing plants of both sexes to produce fruit. Self-fruiting males are known to exist but produce less desirable fruit. Fruit: The oval, ovoid or oblong fruit is up to 2-1/2 inches long, with russet-brown skin densely covered with short, stiff brown hairs. The flesh, firm until fully ripe, is glistening, bright green or sometimes yellow, brownish or off-white, except for the white, succulent center from which radiate many fine, pale lines. Between these lines are scattered minute dark-purple or nearly black seeds, unnoticeable in eating. The flavor is sweet/tart to acid, somewhat like that of the gooseberry with a suggestion of strawberry. CULTURE Location: Kiwifruit will tolerate part shade but prefer a sunny location where they can ramble across some type of trellising system. The vines should be protected from strong winds. Spring gusts can snap off new growth where it emerges from the canes. Kiwifruit is not recommended for the hot dessert climates of the Southwest. Site Preparation: Kiwifruit plants need a substantial trellis, patio cover, or other permanent place to grow upon. For the trellis system, either a single wire or T-bar system can be installed. Both have a 4 inch by 4 inch redwood post of 8 feet. For the T-bar, a 2 inch by 6 inch crossarm about 4 feet long is bolted in place. Bury the post 2 feet into the ground and cement in if at all possible. At each end of the system, a cemented deadman should be in place. Run wires across the posts and anchor tautly to the deadman. When using a patio cover, no extra trellising needs to be in place. Simply run the plant up a corner post to the top and allow the plant to then form a spoke work of shoots which would resemble an umbrella. Soils: Kiwifruit prefer somewhat acid (pH 5 - 6.5), well-drained soils that are rich in organic matter. The leaves may show nitrogen deficiency if the soil is too basic. The plants do not tolerate salty soils. Irrigation: Kiwifruit plants need large volumes of water during the entire growing season but must also be in well-drained soils. Watering regularly in the heat of the summer is a must. Never allow a plant to undergo drought stress. Symptoms of drought stress are drooping leaves, browning of the leaves around the edges, and complete defoliation with regrowth of new shoots when the stress is continuous. More plants probably die from water related problems than any other reason. Fertilization: Plants are heavy nitrogen feeders which should be applied in abundance during the first half of the growing season. Late season applications of nitrogen will enhance fruit size but are discouraged as the fruit then tends to store poorly. In basic soils, a citrus and avocado tree fertilizer should be broadcast about the vine and watered in well in early March. Follow up the initial fertilizing by supplemental additions to early summer. In other areas, use a high nitrogen fertilizer which contains trace elements unless it is known that the particular soil is deficient in another nutrient. Mulching with manures and/or straws is very beneficial. However, do not put the mulch directly in contact with the vine as crown rot will occur. Pruning: For best fruit production, pruning in the winter is a must. All pruning techniques are usually based on a "cane replacement" and differ only based on the trellising method used. Kiwi vines need to be supported and this is usually done in one of three ways: single wire, 3-5 wire on a T-bar system, or onto a patio cover. In all cases, one stem is trained up to a wire at six feet and then allowed to grow along the wire. When growth ends in a "pig-tailing" of the shoot, it is cut behind the entanglement and new a shoot allowed to grow from a leaf base. After two years multiple shoots will now emerge from the lateral mainline. During the growing season, each lateral cane will send out a new shoot about 1/3 of the way from its own starting point. The next winter, prune off the older cane at the point that it connects with last summers new shoot. Repeat this every year. Propagation: Seeds from store bought fruit may be planted in the spring. This should be done in a fine, somewhat sandy planter mix which is kept moist but not soaking wet. Seed germinates in 4 to 5 weeks. Plants raised this way will need to be grafted the following season to produce better, known sex, plants. Nursery bought plants are usually either grafted or cutting grown. Both types have their own attributes. One slight advantage of the cutting grown plants would be advantageous to growers in areas that experience winter freeze problems. If a plant is killed to the ground, a cutting grown plant that survives will regrow from the roots and thus maintain its known characteristics. Otherwise, either type is acceptable to backyard growers. Pests and diseases: Kiwifruit plants are relatively free from problems, possibly due to their lack of heavy planting into areas so that pests begin to take a liking to the leaves, trunk, or roots. One odd problem is the fact that the trunks have a catnip-like aroma which cats love to rub against. When plants are small, this can be a problem as they can rub off any new shoots which emerge in the spring. Garden snails can also be a problem on younger plantings. Other pests include deer browsing on the leaves and gophers attacking the roots. Scale insects can also be a problem if populations build up too extensively. Where present, root-rot nematodes will reduce plant vigor.

The Damson plum tree has many traits that make it a fine choice for the homeowner. These characteristics are a low and compact crown, tolerance to different kinds of soils, cold hardiness, resistance to diseases, and the ability to thrive with little or no care. The tart juicy plums are excellent for home canning. A small, vigorous, rugged, erect growing plum tree. White flowers are borne in umbel-like clusters of 2-3 on short spurs, and solitary or 2-3 in axils on one year old wood. The later spring bloom time of the flowers makes them less frost prone. The foliage is dark green. Fruit production begins in 3-4 years. This tree bears heavy crops of purplish blue juicy, tart plums that ripens in August to October. Self-fertile. The tree adapts to wide range of soil types but requires moist soil. It is cold hardy and tolerates strong winds. Rainfall and high humidity during the growing season can cause the fruit to crack. Thinning is not necessary for Damson plums. Prune only to remove deadwood, crossing branches, or fast growing shoot that appear along the trunk or branches. (zones 5-9) Height Variations: The standard grows to 20', and dwarf grows to 10' in height. Spread Variations: Standard spread grows to 20', dwarf grows to 10'. Moisture: This tree requires moist, well drained soil and is not drought tolerant. Leaves: Simple, ovate or elliptic with acute or obtuse tips, finely toothed on the margins, green and often wrinkled on top, paler and softly hairy beneath Flower Color: White Bloom Time: April. Fruit Description: Small, dark blue or purple 1" oval drupe with golden yellow firm flesh, taste can be either sour or sweet, clingstone. The fruits are good for making Damson Gin or Damson Jam.